Working in Cairo, Egypt as a 5th grade teacher at Hayah International Academy. Ready to explore my new city, learn the ways of the M.E. culture and travel my pants off.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Digging Into Egypt's Culture Of Harassment : NPR


http://www.npr.org/2011/02/17/133845499/women-hope-harassment-will-end-in-new-egypt?sc=fb&cc=fp
"While mob violence like the attack on Lara Logan is not the norm, sexual harassment in Cairo is an everyday occurrence — and most women have their own personal stories to tell. But Egyptian women hope the revolution will change all that."

Revolution: Day 6. Perhaps, it is time to reassess the situation?

Day 6-  Sunday, January 30th, 2011

It was such a beautiful day.  The sun was out and the curfew had lifted; the citizens of Maadi were gaining confidence to venture out of their caves to see the streets first hand.  Many stores, small shops and banks were boarded up while most of the streets were barricaded off in some way to prevent vehicles from entering their neighborhoods.  As I walked past my favorite bakery, the Egyptian owner, Tony stops me.  In his attempt to comfort me, he tells me not to worry because the continued gun shots are only coming from the Maadi Prison to scare the escaped inmates....  Thanks, Tony.

After meeting with the very scared and concerned Hayah staff, may of us realize the school was not overly organized in their next steps.  It was unfortunate, because at the time, many of the other American Schools had put plans into place to provide their international staff with some protection and security with immediate evacuation plans.  At that point, we realized it might be time to reassess the situation and create an independent plan of action.

Sunday night was a repeat of Saturday...  Gunshots from the local militia, Egyptian Army shooting off their tanks only blocks away from my window and one last really tasty dinner with my five new roommates.  The boys also extended their weapons (American metal baseball bats) to our security around the neighborhood.  Below is a picture of Marco with his weapon in the kitchen.




We enjoyed our dinner on the balcony and listened to the sweet sounds of the Revolution.  At one point the boys got excited and raced to the terrace on the roof.  After a few additional seconds I knew to remain under the protected and covered balcony.  Once gun fire goes up, it must come down.....







Local News, Week #1

Revolution: Day 5. Hello Cell Phones, Good-Bye Security

Day 5- Saturday, January 29th, 2011

After pressure from the Western World, Mubarak was encouraged to return cell phone service to his country.  However, he remained in control by keeping text messaging and internet connection down.

When Leah stopped by my flat at 10am, we decided to enjoy the nice weather on my balcony with a coffee and Bailey's.  Throughout the morning, several colleagues walked by and stopped up to chat about the weekly events.  Within the hour, we had received word that school on Sunday was canceled and we were to get to safe location until further notice.  At that point, we knew the situation had been raised from a 2 to a 5.  Leah met Didem at the Maadi Grand Mall to accomplish two important things; remove as much money from their Egyptian bank account as possible and stock up on water and food in case of immediate shortage.  While they ran around I gathered things together at my flat and waited for their return.  Less than twenty minute later they were frantically pounding at my door.  Seems as though they were greeted by friendly protestors with sticks, flags and signs shouting at them to "Get the F* Home!"  The girls must have been pushed around a bit because by the time they reached my flat they were hysterical and almost to tears.  

The current situation just went from a 5 to an 8.

For the next three days I decided to stay at at the safest place I could think of, the top floor of an apartment building with five male American teachers all armed with bats (and enough beer and burgers to last a couple of weeks).

On Saturday evening, the Egyptian Police were ordered by the government to disappear, leaving the streets empty of civic order.  After the last "Call to Prayer" of the day, all men were beckoned to the streets to protect the neighborhood from rioters and looters.  Each man carrying their favorite weapon; sharpened sticks, metal poles and knives.  My friends and I were glued to the news (and our windows).  After a delicious dinner of homemade lentil soup, rice and fruity cocktails, we heard a journalist report the release of criminals from the Maadi prison, located just a few blocks from my flat.  Many believe this was a strategy of the government to cause anarchy in the midst of police absence.  

Later that night, our neighborhood police station was raided by local Egyptian neighbors (the good guys).  However comforting or frighting it was, our local militia was now armed with rifles and hand guns.  Throughout the night we listened to the sounds of gunfire, army tanks and helicopters until sunrise.  Both manual and automatic gunfire continued until the final minutes of curfew.
Overnight, the "freak-out meter" jumped from an 8 to a 10. 

Revolution: Day 4

Friday, January 28th, 2011

Friday mornings with the Maadi Runner's have become my favorite day of the week.  Usually gathering at the US Embassy School in Maadi around 6:30am for marathon training.  We run our tails off for a few hours and conclude the morning with the most extravagant post-run brunch and some laughs.  However, because of our busy morning, no one realized that every line of communication had been cut off.  Gmail.com, Facebook.com,  BBC.com, cell phones, text messages, blackberry service- everything, Khalas!!  The only form of communication available at the time was a land-line.  Come on, this is 2011, I don't even know how to use my land-line.

That night a curfew was enforced at 8pm.  Did we follow this curfew?  Was there any potential sign of danger in Maadi?  I can honestly say, No.  At that point, no one thought these protests could go much further.  Tahrir Square was 10 kilometers away which seemed like the other side of the world.  However, when a group of us left for a party located just down the street at around 10pm, it only took a few moments to realize the unusual silence that surrounded us.  There were no honking of cars, shouting of men or running of children.  But, what concerned me the most was even the overpopulated and endless presence of wild cats and dogs were absent from the streets.  Almost as if they knew something was coming that we didn't.



Pre-Revolution Party

Pre-Revolution:

The Egyptian Revolution started like any other revolution.  No School Day!!  January 25th had been considered a national holiday for many years.  With that, we felt it our duty to celebrate our current home country on Monday night at a jazz club in downtown Cairo.  This place was buzzing with the local flavor.  But, when I say local I really mean someone average, you know, like former Egyptian Royalty or the (recently former) Minister of Education's son.  Each of them very well dressed, very well educated, and fairly moderate in the traditional Islamic values ie: pork and alcohol.

Throughout the night, there was not one hint of revolutionary talk.  If there was, perhaps it was spoken in code (Arabic) or far away from the ears of western looking women.  I woke up the next morning with nothing more than a small hangover and a much needed Cola Light.


Day 1-3:

These days were all the same.  We went to school and taught.  The only exception of abnormality was a 15 minute early release.  Essentially, Hayah's attempt to avoid the "small" protest traffic our students would face as they passed through downtown on their way home.  Each day, we returned to work hearing more and more about the peaceful crowds gathering in Tahrir Square.  But each day, I was reminded about the risk these protestors were taking.  As Egyptian law stated; the gathering of small groups, peaceful or not, was an illegal act.  Many Egyptians were worried for the protestors and the potential brutality Mubarak's Police could bring.  On Thursday, January 27th, 2011 our first form of communication was cut off-- FACEBOOK.com??


Thursday, December 16, 2010

Barcelona Bound

It is official, airline ticket purchased, hotel reservations made and best friend has confirmed her European marathon commitments.  The only thing left to finalize is the potential amount of Spanish wine to be consumed in five days, oh and the 26.2 mile training program.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Maadi Runners

His name is Moshen, and we like to call him the Mayor of Maadi.  He is 100% Egyptian, but also considers himself Brazilian and I think secretly, a bit American.  He is a very unique character and I am so thankful I met this guy.

Moshen is responsible for the creation of the Maadi Runners.  For years, Expats and Egyptians have gathered together to train for various marathons around the world.  This year, they have chosen Barcelona, Spain on March 6th as their destination.   The most interesting thing about this group is it's cult-like mentality of "once a Maadi Runner, always a Maadi Runner".   As the local group gathers around 20-25 runner's each week, the international group will bring over 60 members together at the annual marathon. 

Last week, Moshen organize the group run of 13.1 miles, from Maadi to the Sphinx!  We departed from Maadi around 6:30am and jogged our way down the Cornish, over the Nile, along the Ring Road and finally finishing at the Giza Pyramids next to the infamous Sphinx.  As tradition, after each run we meet for a brunch at someones home.  However, this special occasion deserved a special Egyptian breakfast.  We celebrated our first half marathon of the season with foul, tamea, boiled eggs, pita and turkish coffee.


Maadi Runner's at Giza

Group Run in the Wadi


Katy at Wadi Degla


hill workout :)

Running the Island of Zamelek

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Birthday Bus

On the way home last week we discovered it was the little twins 7th birthday.  Being the only children on our staff bus ride home to Maadi, we love to talk with them and of course tease them both:)  First we sang happy birthday to them in an obnoxious and embarrassing way a 7 year old just cringes to, when in front of 20 adults.  However, it did not stop there because you cannot live in an Arab world without singing happy birthday in the local language, so the chanting continued.  Now, with a bus full of international educators you are going to get a few multicultural experiences.  One language led to another, Spanish turned to Russian, then French, Italian and Korean.  Each person had a different language to share with the bus and in the end Natalie and Thomas received "Happy Birthday's" in eleven different languages.  Then their father topped it off in sign language.

It was a moment where you sit back and realize even the simplest things in life, like singing a song, can help you become aware of something extraordinary.  And I reflected on how crazy it is that I am currently kickin' it in Egypt.  But truly, the best part about this place are the people that surround me.  They are so interesting and diverse, I have so much to learn from each of them.  I think it was the first moment I realized I am here for the right reasons.

Susan G. Koman, Race for the Cure. Giza, Cairo, Egypt.

Hayah's Pilgrimage to Mecca

There are two large religious holidays in the Muslim faith.  The first one I experienced in Egypt was that of Ramadan, a month long journey of fasting for the sake of God, or Allah.  This is also a time of prayer in attempt to purify themselves through self-restraint and good deeds.

The second holiday, Eid al-Adha is celebrated by Muslims to commemorate the willingness of Ibrahim (Abraham) to sacrifice his son, Ishmael, as an act of obedience to God.  But then, as the story in the Quraan states, Allah intervened and asked Ibrahim to sacrifice a ram in place of his son.  And to this day, Muslim families around the world take part in this sacrifice each year.  Eid al-Adha is celebrated directly following the two week pilgrimage to Mecca, called Hajj that also happens annually.

"The Hajj (Arabicحج‎ á¸¤ajj) is the annual pilgrimage to MeccaSaudi Arabia. It is currently the largest annual pilgrimage in the world,[1] and is the fifth pillar of Islam, a religious duty that must be carried out at least once in their lifetime by every able-bodied Muslim who can afford to do so. The Hajj is a demonstration of the solidarity of the Muslim people, and their submission to God (Allah in the Arabic language).[2]"

I believe to be very fortunate as I was able to witness a well produced simulation of Hajj.  (Special because any man not of the muslim faith is not permitted to enter Mecca to observe these events at any time).  The Arabic, Religion and Quraan teachers at Hayah developed an incredible event for our students to see first hand what it will be like to visit Mecca in their future.  From the stamping of their "passports" at the "airport into Mecca" to circling the "Ka3ba" seven times.  Each ritual observed at Hajj was also observed at Hayah's simulation (with only slight adjustments).

Here is the Hajj journey, Enjoy!!


Step 1- Wodu' (ablution): is the Islamic act of washing parts of the body using waterMuslims are required to be clean in preparation for ritual prayers


This washing includes:

  • Washing the face once.
  • Washing both the arms including the elbows once.
  • Performing masah of one fourth of the head.
  • Wiping both the feet once up to and including the ankles.


Step 2- Putting on Ibrahim's clothes:  All men should be dress exactly the same in white cloth, without trim, tied together over the heart.  Women are allowed to wear what they choose as long as it covers every part of the body except their face and hands.




**Almost all students at this school are Muslim, with the exception of a few ex-pat teacher's children.  My favorite is a first grader named Natalie.  Her and her family are from Minnesota and have some strong midwestern roots:)  She is a doll, full of life and loves to experience new things.  Because of those attributes, she was the bravest of all ex-pat kids and decided to "participate" in the simulation.  Natalie and her father, Steve, dressed in the traditional clothing and observed all the rituals with her classmates.  It was so neat to watch her.  A side note, these rituals are pretty intense, even for myself, as an adult,  the chats, movements and uniform dress were pretty overwhelming.  She was very brave to endure something so foreign to her.



Step 3- Prayer:  Every Muslim in the elementary, both student and staff, lined facing east and began their prayer to Mecca.



Step 4-  Passport Acceptance at Airport




Step 5- Tawaf Al-Qudoum (circumambulating): Circle the Ka3ba seven times in an counter-clockwise direction.  During this time, three different Dua'a were recited together as a group.

For instance, the Dua'a recited when first seeing the Ka3ba: "Alahoma zed hatha al bayt tashrifan wa ta'ziman wa mahabatan wa refa'a"

The Ka3ba- Mohammad's home
Ibrahim's footprints


Abdel-Rahman (Taco) in traditional dress


Step 6- Jabal Arafat (Arafat Mountain):


Pilgrims climb the mountain and stand in contemplative vigil and pray and recite the Qur'an, near a hill from which Muhammad gave his last sermon, this hill is called Jabal Al Rahmah (The Hill of Forgiveness, Mount Arafat). This is known as Wuquf, considered the highlight of the Hajj.


Collecting seven stones


Step 7- Mennah / Mozdelafa:  Each Muslim collects seven stones to throw at the Devil

The pilgrims leave Arafat for Muzdalifah, an area between Arafat and Mina, where they gather pebbles for the next day's ritual of the stoning of the Devil (Shaitan).













Step 8- Al Shahed: Stoning of the Devil

The Pilgrim says: "Allaho Akbar", then throws the seven small pebbles.

At Mina the pilgrims perform Ramy al-Jamarat, throwing stones to signify their defiance of the Devil. This symbolizes the trials experienced by Abraham while he was going to sacrifice his son as demanded by Allah. The Devil challenged him three times, and three times Abraham refused. Each pillar marks the location of one of these refusals
The "Devil" is inside the arch. 

Step 9- Tawaf Al Ifada (Circumambulating):  Circle the Ka3ba once more as the pilgrim says: "La Ilaha ila Allah wahdaho la sharika lah"



On this or the following day the pilgrims re-visit the Masjid al-Haram mosque in Mecca for another tawaf, to walk around the Kaaba.  This symbolizes being in a hurry to respond to God and show love for Him, an obligatory part of the Hajj.










Step 10- Sa'i between as-Safaa and al-Marwa: Walk between the as-Safa hill and al-Marwa hill.

The pilgrims perform sa`i, running or walking seven times between the hills of Safa and Marwah. This is a re-enactment of the frantic search for water for her son Ishmael by Abraham's wife Hagar. As she searched, the Zamzam Well was revealed to her by an angel, who hit the ground with his heel (or brushed the ground with the tip of his wing), upon which the water of the Zamzam started gushing from the ground.


The Route of Hajj

5th grade teacher, Marcy, and her son, Ali, after Hajj

Saturday, November 6, 2010

"Four and below, take it down low. Five or above, give it a shove"

...Then I asked my students, what does 26 years old round to?

"Miss, you are closer to 30 than you are 20".

"Thank you for that," I replied.

What a good birthday with my Cairo amigos.  I was not expecting much of a night but when I walked into my favorite Thai restaurant 17 minutes late for our dinner date (weird, I was late, but I think it helped the surprise) I found 15 of my friends sitting at a table waiting to eat!  After dinner, the lights went out and the waiter passed candle sticks around to everyone as they brought out a HAWKEYE cake.  I sat back and thought; I am celebrating my 26th birthday with some pretty incredible people I have known for less than three months while slammin' down a Tigerhawk cake (per my favorite Canadian, Amanda) in Cairo, Egypt--  I don't know if I will ever experience this scenario again, but I am going to relish the unique moment for a while.


Year 26 will bring..

  • Marathon #2 with my best friend: same distance, different continent
  • Teacher turned Tour Guide: Feb, March, April, May & maybe more..
  • More Red Wine
  • Freedom
  • Ragbrai with the Beavers
  • Larger Book collection, new and old
  • Mt. Kilimanjaro climb
  • Eat Massamon Curry in Thailand
  • Make new friends, visit old ones
  • Emails with Gram Jo

Monday, October 18, 2010

Egyptian lesson #77: Camel's have many superpowers, my favorite is their night vision.

Dear Mrs. Barry,
Just wanted to send you some updates of our break this past week at a camp site outside of Dahab, called Abu Galum, along the Red Sea (Sinai side).
Camping was quite fun, however, I slept SO horribly.  Amanda and I cuddled into the freezing night on both Wed and Thursday while listening to the Red Sea 8 feet in front of us.  We also slept with seven or so hard rocks under our mat and a bug of some sorts eating at my skin (then I was told its because I am sweet like honey, but that didnt make it any better...)
We woke up each morning to a bedouin man serving flat bread with white cheese and jam with the choice of bedouin tea or nescafe before our first dive.  A larger breakfast followed Dive 1 and around 1pm we prepared for our second dive of the day.  The diving was FANTASTIC at this site (Abu Galum).  My favorite was early Friday morning.  We had our regular pre-dive meal and headed to the dive spot around 6:30 am so we could catch the high tide.  Sameh, our dive master, decided he didn't want to brief us on this dive as he was going to leave it all a surprise and it was incredible.  I felt like I was floating around the world of Avatar in 3-D, like the blue warrior princess protecting mother willow.  :)   Both the coral and fish were extremely diverse in species, shades and shapes.  I was blown away with the vividness of all the colors; diving in and out of pathways while dipping over and under different obstacles.  
I am very glad I stuck with this adventure- third times the charm, right?  I feel like I have overcome a large fear I once had with open water and have learned to control my body in ways I was not aware.  In the beginning, I was so cautious of my ears and scared to death to lose my mask or regulator but now I know I have the skills to get through if any of those things did happen under water.  
Also, we rode some camels up and down a mountain along the sea AT NIGHT.  Very scary!  Did you know camels have night vision?  Well, at least that is what they told us...  Needless to say, during our journey home, I decided to leave my camping pack on the camel and run my way back to town to wait for everyone else... a good hour and a half.  But worth it, you can't beat running a trail in-between a mountain and the gorgeous Red Sea.  

 
I hope you had a great week!  Let me know what you have been up to.  I miss you guys.
much love,
LA







Monday, October 4, 2010

Bedouin Beauty by the Sea.

Email from fellow Norwegian and diver regarding specifics of the next "travel pants party"...
Again, the Egyptian state has been kind enough to provide us with another national holiday. Thus, during the long-weekend which The Armed Forces Day produce we will be camping and diving at Abu Galum.

For those of you unfamiliar with Abu Galum, this is one of the 18 protected natural areas in Egypt. This rarely visited place is only reachable by a 1.5 hr camel ride. It consists of a small Beduin community, a picturesque beach and beautiful, virgin coral reef.  We will see intriguing reef formations made up of a variety of both hard and soft corals.  Local inhabitants include emperor-fish, crocodile-fish, trevallies and the rare turtle.

The dives at Abu Galum is suitable for all levels of divers.  For those of you who don't dive, the reef is perfect for snorkeling and simply kicking back while dreaming of how the Sinai coast was 30 years ago.

Tuesday 5th:
Bus leaves from Scubaseekers shop in Cairo at 5.30pm.

Wednesday 6th:
We'll be meeting at the dive center for check-in at 8.30am. After this follows 2 dives in Dahab (location weather dependent). We will then leave Dahab 3 pm from the Blue Hole by camel. Arrival in Abu Galum at 4.30pm. There we will set up camp and enjoy dinner.

Thursday 7th:
The whole day will be spent eating, diving (2 dives), snorkeling and chilling out by the beautiful beach.

Friday 8th:
Breakfast and 2 dives in Abu Galum, then we will return to Dahab by camel around 3.00pm.

Basic food will be cooked during our stay by our beduin hosts. We will have three meal per day consisting of items such as foul, tuna, bread, cheese etc. If your taste-buds are of the more luxurious kind we recommend perhaps bringing something “extra” such as protein bars, canned meat etc.

In true 1001-nights-fashion we will sleep on carpets and cushions under the stars. It is likely to be hot with a sleeping-bag, but you might appreciate a thin sheet and pillow.

Please keep in mind that we will traveling by camel. It is therefore imperative that you pack your belongings in a backpack. We should also try to keep the quantities of stuff to a bare minimum. Seeing that we will be camping, here is a suggestive list of what you should bring in addition to your essentials:

- Light shoes
- Thin sheet/Sleeping-bag, pillow
- Flashlight (+ spare batteries)
- Snacks
- Sun protection: hat, sunglasses, sun-cream
 
- Paper tissues/wet ones/toilet paper

Included:
Transport by jeep and camel within Dahab.
Dive guide.
Tanks.
Food in Abu Galoum 5 Meals
Overnight stays in Abou Galoum
Water 

Monday, September 27, 2010

My New Super Star

My girl, Haidi, has such a big heart.  On the seventh day of school she brought her teacher her very own freshly baked cake.  I told her "Shukran, Shukran owie owie owie!!!"  She smiled then gave me a hug.

I could tell Haidi had watched her parents welcome others in a similar way.  She put her arms out like she was an experienced host and shouted in her proudest voice "Welcome to Hayah and Welcome to Egypt".  I think this gift helped her feel like a mature and responsible eleven year old.  It was a wonderful feeling to receive such a welcome and even better to see her so proud of herself, her family and her culture.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Back to the Midwest!

Ok, not technically, but it felt pretty close to it.  On the bus ride home this evening, I was talking with a small group of staff members sitting near my seat and I over heard Lisa sharing the menu she was preparing for her family tonight.  Steve and Lisa, are a couple from good ol' Minnie that also brought along their two adorable 7 year old twins, Natalie and Thomas. When I heard "Sloppy Joe's", my ears instantly perked up and I got a bit giddy thinking of Momma J's Sloppy Joe's.  I think she thought it was quite funny how excited I was for such a meal.  About an hour later I received a call from the cute family around the corner inviting me, with another couple, Musa and Kathleen, to Sloppy Joe's (how could I refuse!?!).


We opened the door and walked in the flat, the smell was overwhelming.  The aroma brought on a flood of good memories, like a mix of Gram Jo's house and MJ's cooking.  The entryway opened into a large living and dinning room which were connected to the kitchen through an old fashion bar that peered right into the kitchen.  I think it took Natalie 30 seconds before she grabbed my hand to give the proper tour.  She led us into her room filled with dolls, a Hannah Montana poster and awards she had earned at school.  Thomas showed me his spider man web shooter-- pretty sweet.


The best part of the night, even before any food was served, was when Thomas and his Dad brought out a sand dollar they found on the Red Sea a few weeks ago.  Right before the family left for their trip, I was talking with Thomas, Natalie and their Dad about looking for washed up sand dollars on the shore.   I remembered how excited my siblings and I would get as babes when Grandma Ursula brought us sand dollars from Florida.  She showed us why we should crack open the dried out sand dollars and how to find the little symmetrical surprises inside.  Thomas decided these pieces HAD to be fossils or teeth!  It was really neat to see the conversation the kids and I had together about Grandma Ursula, encourage them to find sand dollars on their trip and bring it back to show me.  It was undoubtably a Chris Scheldrup moment (he might have even cried at this one).


When dinner was served we shared a pretty killer dip, salad, fries with ketchup and/or sour cream, sloppy joe's and to top it all off she baked banana bread with chocolate chips!!  I couldn't really believe my eyes or my taste buds.  After five weeks away from the simple pleasures of the midwest (good food, good beer, good football, good peeps), I was so thankful for the invite to a Sloppy Joe night.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Day 1

And it has begun, after the "longest summer break of my life" (thank you CC) we are officially back as educators.  My class is filled with energetic and extremely vocal 5th graders.  


I was excited and nervous to begin the new year and my first day proved to be just that.  I was immersed in more cultural experiences than I have had since I arrived in Cairo.  Many of which added a unique challenge to our day.


Just like the beginning of every new school year, I love to play the alliteration name game.  This game involves everyone in class while supports my name recognition progress.  As we began the game today, I reminded students to have an idea of what they would like to call themselves when it was their turn.  Then we came to a very long string of "H".. Habiba (1), Habibia (2), Hara, Hana, Haidi, Haya and Hend.  Now, as first language english speakers it might not be too difficult to think of seven describing words that begin with an "H", however, we were not as fortunate.  Who would have thought I'd have seven student's with the name of "H".  Back in the States, I cannot recall more than three common-day names that begin with the letter H, let alone seven in one classroom...  But in the end we now have a few "Happy Habibia's", "Honest Hana" and "Hungry Haya".


Hayah International Academy is an American based school so roughly 90% of the employees speak English very well.  Traditionally, the ones who do not speak English are the "matrons" as well as the Arabic and Quraan teachers.  This is fine until you must speak with one of them about a student's needs or a task that must be completed.  In the first day I have already learned a very important lesson and I think this problem can be solved in one of two ways: first choice, use a fellow student to translate the pertinent information to identified party OR second (and probably most preferred) choice is to provide a nice breakfast treat (post Ramadan) to share with said party.  This is guaranteed to clear up all confusions..


The event that had the greatest impact on me was during the students time for prayer, which happens after lunch.  Students are directed towards the bathroom's where they are to preform "Wudu" or the Islamic act of cleaning the body.  Muslims are required to clean their face, arms, elbows, hands and head in preparation of ritual prayers.  The boys and girls are separated onto different mats on different sides of the hall for prayer.  Our girls are also required to wear a veil that covers their entire body except their face.  To begin the midday prayer, the students line up in rows, facing Mecca.  The Quraan teacher leads them in their traditional prayer and for 10 minutes they are silent except for the words of the prayer.  It was the quietest I heard my students all day.  I remember having chills as I watched the students in unison, rise up to their feet, bend over, then down to their knees, placing their forehead to the floor, and finally back to their knees and up again.  I think for me it is one thing to witness adults showing strength in their faith but it is another to see such devotion from someone so small.  It was something I had never experienced before and I will cherish that first observable moment.


To end the day, my class and myself almost missed the bus ride home.  The final bell rang at 3:30, however I was unsure of the exact time to dismiss the students from my room.  I thought I would wait with them in a line inside my door while watching for other classes to walk by the room, giving me the cue to dismiss.  But when twelve minutes pass and no one had walked by, I realized there was a problem.  Suddenly, the Principal, Miss Margaret came rushing down my hallway... and yes, we were late.  Every student and teacher K-12 had already loaded the buses.  I was bummed because we didn't get to part the way I wanted on the first day, but I suppose things were good because they made it back home.  I remember my former administrator, Mr. Palmer saying the most important thing to accomplish on the first day is to get the students to school, get them fed and then get them home safely.  If you can do all three it was a good day... (woops?!)



10 Ways to Walk Like an Egyptian

--or just 10 more reasons to visit L.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/egypt/travel-tips-and-articles/68293



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Thursday, September 9, 2010

Eid Break in Dahab

Holidays on the Red Sea can be so stressful and strenuous at times.  Waking up to the waves crashing against the rocky beach then strolling down (I don’t stroll, but you get the idea) the boardwalk to our preferred Bedouin cafĂ© for a hot NescafĂ© and a cool banana milk shake….  Pretty rough, would you say?

Every morning since Monday has begun that same way, but on the third morning I laid back against the beach pillow and thought, “Can it get much better then this?”  Suddenly, I was struck from my daze to hear Sameh, dive instructor by profession tour guide by heart, had reserved us a yacht to explore the untouched sea life Dahab and the Red Sea have to offer.  (Like I said, stress-ful!)

With our scuba gear in toe, we cruised through the Red Sea to find a far-off-land called Gaber El-Bint with a beautiful reef protected by a large cove.  The boat saddled up next to three others of the same magnitude and the games were on; scuba diving, snorkeling, swimming or reading on the upper deck- just to name a few.   All the while, the crew was busy preparing lunch for their guests to be served under the boat’s canopy, overlooking the reef and coastal mountains.

My choice of poison was scuba diving, as I had decided to take this trip as a chance to earn my diving certification.  This morning was my second day of training.  The first day was at a rocky beach and was spent primarily on the shore going over drills and discussing diving techniques.  By the end of the day, I had completed two 4-meter dives while practicing the application of those drills and techniques underwater.

I was excited to begin my second day of training because I was to have my first open water dive.  However, during my decent, I began to have troubles equalizing my ears.  Not really understanding the intensity of pain this could create I continued to descend until I reach 8 meters.  At that point, I reached my threshold of pain and had to go back up.  However, on my ascent I experienced something called a reverse block, which caused additional squeezing in my ears and provided a quick shot of vertigo sending me into a spinning whirl-wind.  As I reflect back at that moment a day later, I don’t remember if it was really that painful or just the fear that I was stuck at 5 meters under the sea and could not go up or down until my ears released some pressure.  When I finally reached the surface with the instructor by my side, I was more pissed off at myself than anything.  Every other diver was below me, why couldn’t I get down there?   Sameh sent me back to the boat and suggested I refrain from diving until we get my ears checked by the doc later that evening.  (which I was also not very pumped about….).

In the end, turns out there was swelling and bleeding in both my ears that were caused by my lack of equalization (and possibly a head cold).  I was not very pleased when the doctor scolded me for being reckless and continued to rain on my parade by ending my dive training until the swelling goes down and the bleeding stops.  So, with only two days left in our trip I am S.O.L.  However, after much consideration, I have decided because the water is so crystal clear blue, the food, beer and hotel are so incredibly cheap and the dive is already paid for, I will be back sooner than one thought… for another strenuous weekend in Dahab.










Friday, August 27, 2010

Fino's Bakery

After work a few days ago, I walked into Fino's bakery just a few blocks from my house.  I was looking for the delicious Italian pastry pizza (as I had skipped lunch because the rest of the staff has been fasting for Ramadan making it nearly impossible to find a sandwich or cola light on campus).  

It is always the same two very nice Egyptian ladies working the front.  I know they are Egyptian because they are wearing a pink polo shirt and pants (similar outfit you might see an employee at Panera Bread wearing), however they wear the tight long sleeved, mock turtle neck shirt covering every inch of their torso, arms, neck and a short hijab under their ball cap.  

As I was waiting for my order I got to chatting with a man, Tony, sitting at the small section of tables.  Tony turned out to be the owner of this and several other bakeries around Cairo.  First thing he asks is if I was from Chicago or Minnesota, explaining he could tell I was a Midwesterner by the "bubbliness” coming from me and, of course the hair.  Tony had lived in NYC for 20 years and opened a few restaurants and nightclubs; he seemed very western in his thoughts and ideas.  I got the impression he might know EVERYONE and EVERYTHING in Cairo so I made sure to secure this friendship.

I shared with Tony the trouble we’ve been having in obtaining a bank account over here and how worried I was traveling back to the States with a large wad of cash.  He immediately picked up the mobile and started shouting in Arabic.  He asked me a few more questions and continued his convo with his banker.  When he hung up he assured me that we could have a bank account by the end of the week.. Inshalla.

Our interaction quickly turned to a Grandfatherly-like conversation; as he was worried about how we were being safe in Cairo, watching out for certain things and people.  He reminded me how wonderful a country Egypt really is- the friendly people with the extremely inexpensive and culturally unique places to eat, party, travel and learn- But, as both a US and Egyptian citizen, he understands how messed up things can be around here and offered his help in my transition in anyway that he could.  Then he gave me a free pastry for breakfast and I gave my goodbyes. 

Later, I thought about how quickly that conversation progress and how helpful and thoughtful Tony seemed to be.  I am not used to others being so inquisitive so quickly but I am getting the impression that if an Egyptian believes you’re a friend they’ll go pretty far for you (even shout Arabic obscenities at their banker).  I hope I am lucky enough to find many friendly and welcoming Egyptians like that one along the way.